January 20, 2019 Bangkok to Phnom Penh

HAPPY BIRTHDAY RICK!!!  🎉🎂🍾❤️🥳

Today was also a travel day.  At breakfast we met the rest of our group.  There are eight of us on the pre-trip to Cambodia.  Everyone seems very nice.  We were picked up by a different OAT representative and taken to the airport.  All very easy!

The flight was uneventful and we were met in Phnom Penh by our new guide Alex.  While we drove into the city Alex told us a little about himself and his family.  His parents were married by soldiers during the Khmer Rouge period.  They didn’t know each other but the soldier asked if they wanted to get married.  You always say yes to soldiers in that day, so they got married.  Most folks lost at least one family member during the reign of the Khamer Rouge.  Alex’s family lost four, three uncles and an aunt. His parents currently owns a bike shop that doubles as an apartment for him.  Here’s a picture of Alex.

We arrived at our first stop, Wat Phnom, a Buddhist temple that was originally built in 1372 by Lady Penh, a wealthy woman who helped establish the capital.  It’s Buddhist temple with a lot of ancestor worship mixed in.  The temple itself was very chaotic.  There were people offering fake money to be burned for their ancestors.  People also offered meat to their ancestors by placing it in the mouth of a stone tiger statue.

Here’s a video of the music at the temple.

There was a large lawn clock that ran on water at the same site.

After touring the temple Alex bought a local delicacy, a cooked duck embryo, and offer to let us try it. The street vendor had a pot of hot water with about half a dozen eggs in it.  Alex cracked the top of the shell and used a tiny spoon (which the vendor cleaned by swishing it in the hot water) to scoop out chunks of duck embryo.  Only one person in our group tried it.  No it wasn’t me 🤪.  She said it tasted like chicken livers.

Here are some of the other offerings available at the temple.

From there we went on to the hotel and checked in.  That evening we went to the Foreign Correspondent Club for dinner.    We took a remork-moto, a cart on the back of a motorcycle, to the restaurant.

We had a very nice dinner along the edge of the Mekong River.  We toasted Rick’s birthday.

Update

The internet at our hotel in Siem Reap is very slow and I can’t upload pictures.  I will post more as soon as I can.

January 19, 2019 Hong Kong to Bangkok

Today was a travel day.  We were flying from Hong Kong to Bangkok.  Our flight didn’t leave until 2:25 so we had the morning free.  Rick and I walked to the park and watched them clean the cages and feed the animals, specifically birds, turtles, and orangutans.  It was a nice relaxing morning.  

We left for the airport around 10:30. I think we had the worst taxi driver in all of Hong Kong.  He kept punching the accelerator and then let off of it.  We think he thought it was a gas saving maneuver.  Whatever it was, it was annoying. 

We had noticed that the first name on Rick’s ticket was Rick, not Richard which is on his passport.  It hadn’t been a problem flying from Boston to Hong Kong but it was a problem going from Hong Kong to Bangkok.  They talked to the manager who said it was ok to cross out Rick and write in Richard for this flight but they told us that we should get it fixed since it could be a problem in the future.  It was urgent that we get it taken care of because we were scheduled to fly the next day from Bangkok to Phnom Penh. We wanted to make sure that Rick was going to be able to get to Cambodia!  So we went to the lounge and called OAT.  Even though it was the middle of the night in Boston, we got someone who said they would fix it.  

The flight was uneventful.  We got through immigration and customs easily.  We were met by an OAT representative and explained the ticket situation to him.  Rick and this gentleman went to the check in counter to try to get it straightened out.  OAT Boston had already fixed it for the flight to Cambodia.  The airline was going to charge us to change the rest of the ticket so the OAT representative suggested that we let OAT Boston take care of it.  We slept better because we knew it was fixed for the next flight.

We were driven to the hotel.  We got checked in and settled and then went to the lounge for a drink.  In the lounge there was a women who was by herself so we talked to her and it turned out she, Kristina, was on our tour.  So we had a glass of wine and dinner with her.  She was born and raise in Sweden but has lived in the US for many years.

After dinner we all went to bed.  Not the most exciting day but I guess that’s what you want on a travel day.  

January 18, 2019 Hong Kong

We slept until 6:00.  I think we are over the worst of our jet lag.

After breakfast in the hotel restaurant, we walked through the garden and the Soho district, which had lots of interesting looking shops and restaurants, toward the Man Mo Temple.  The temple was built between 1847 and 1862 by wealthy Chinese merchants, primarily for the worship of Man Cheong (God of Literature) and Mo Tai (God of Martial Arts).  We really needed a guide to explain what we were seeing.  There were lots and lots of incense, candles, and offerings.  It was hard to capture the feel of the place in pictures but . . .

From there, we walked around Soho looking at the amazing antique shops.  In one window we saw a pair of statues from the Tang Dynasty which were for sale for a mere  $500k.  We considered it but thought  they might not fit in our suitcase.

We started to get hungry so we figured that we should have dim sum while in Hong Kong. We checked TripAdvisor and found a restaurant that was highly rated for dim sum and headed in that direction.  It turned out it was in the Mandarin Hotel — very fancy.  Unfortunately they were full with reservations and couldn’t take us, so we walked back the way we came and went to a noodle place with lots of locals.

After lunch we went over to the Star Ferry and bought tickets for a harbor tour.  It was a little foggy and a bit chilly but it was nice to see the city from the water.

Back on dry land, we got a taxi back to the hotel and relaxed for a couple of hours before having a “picnic” dinner.  Tomorrow we are off to Bangkok!

January 17, 2019 Hong Kong

We slept pretty well considering we are trying to adjust to a 13 hour time change.  Rick slept from 7:30 until 3 and I slept from 8 until 4, was up for awhile and then went back to sleep from 5:30 until 8.

We met Ann in the lobby at walked across the street to the Hong Kong Zoological and Botanical Gardens, a beautiful and serene park in the middle of the city.  We wandered around, looking at the plants, birds, and animals.  Here are a few pictures.

We stopped at the grocery store to get water on the way back to hotel.  After safely storing our water we took a taxi up to the peak.  We had a coffee and admired the view.  It was a perfect day to be up there.  Not a cloud in the sky and in the upper 60’s.  The view was magnificent!  We hadn’t realized how big Hong Kong is.  Walking along some of the paths we were able to see the other side of the island.  Here  are some pictures.

We had lunch at Wildfire, a excellent pizza place at the peak.  From there we took a taxi back to the hotel where we regrouped.

Next stop the Star Ferry which travels between Hong Kong Island and Kowloon.  It’s been running since 1888.  Here’s a picture of the ferry.

The Kowloon side felt much more chaotic and had lots of very high end shopping.  We planned to go to the flower market and the bird market.  We started walking but weren’t completely sure where we were going so we asked a hotel doorman.  He told us it was a pretty long walk and suggested that we take a cab or the subway.  We tried to get a cab but no one wanted to take us, so we decided to try to subway.  A gentleman at the subway’s customer service desk sold us the tickets and told us how to get to the markets.  Ann and I got on the train  and the doors started to close.  Rick almost didn’t get on the train, but being the New Yorker that he is, he held the doors open and made it through.  Yikes that was close!

We got off the train and walked to the flower market.  It was store after store of beautiful flowers.

We walked a little further to the bird market.

We didn’t buy any flowers or birds, just took the subway back to the pier area.  We ended up going into a hotel to have a glass of wine and some appetizers.  We wanted to stay on the Kowloon side to see the light show.  After dinner we walked to the harbor and found a good spot to watch it.  The light show was cool.

After the light show we took a taxi to the hotel.  We stayed up until 9:30.   We’re making progress!

January 16, 2019 Hong Kong

Our flight from Boston to Hong Kong was fine, but very long — 15 1/2 hrs.  We went up and over the North Pole. Rick slept pretty well but Ann and I didn’t.  There were a number of kids on the plane including 7 year old, Ella, and her 3 year old brother, Alex.  Ella asked me about my favorite color as she walked by.  We proceeded to play pretend with her dolls and play games on her iPad.  Eventually Alex got in on the fun.  We helped each other pass the time.

We were easily able to get a cab from the airport to our hotel.  Our cab driver told us all about Hong Kong and entertained us the whole way.  His English was stilted, but still very good  he ha d great sence of humor.

We are staying at the Garden View Hotel in Central which I highly recommend.  (Thanks Doug and Nancy for the recommendation).  It’s a great location at a great price.  The rooms aren’t fancy but they are very nice and very clean.  To top it off there is a top notch grocery store around the corner, great bread, good sliced meats and cheese from  all over the world .

We got checked in and relaxed for a couple of hours.  I took a short nap.  We agreed the next three days we want to see some of the city, but not try to see everything — we want to give ourselves the time we needed to get through our jet lag.  We left the hotel around 11 and walked towards the water.  We went to lunch at a restuarant which serves Hong Kong style Chinese food, recommended by the hotel and Fodor’s as authentic.  Lots of locals, really different and very good.

After lunch we had a coffee (we desperately needed the caffeine) and walked around the harbor, exploring some of our options for the rest of our time here.  We walked over to the convention center which is architecturally interesting and entirely enormous.   Here are pictures from our walk.

Caffiene jolt fading we way back toward the hotel.  En route we stopped at a grocery store and got some food for a picnic dinner (we didn’t think we would be very hungry after our big lunch) and for breakfast tomorrow morning.  We bought several bottles of water as well as two bottles of wine. The groceries were quite heavy and the return route to our hotel quite steep, so we took a cab back to the hotel — best $3 US we could have spent!

We relaxed for a couple of hours but we didn’t allow ourselves to nap.  We had our picnic dinner in Ann’s room and planned our itinerary for the next day.  We were in bed and snoring 💤 by 8.  Let’s hope we can sleep until 4 or 5 o’clock!

January 13, 2019 E Brookfield, MA

We leave tomorrow for Hong Kong, Thailand, and Cambodia.  We are traveling with our neighbor, Ann Auger.  We fly to Hong Kong where we will spend 3 days.  Then we go to Bangkok where we start our Overseas Adventure Tour.  We go to Phnom Penh and Siem  Reap to see Angkor Wat.  Following that we travel around Thailand for 16 days.  After the tour,  Rick and I have rented a boat and we will sail around Koh Chang for 2 weeks.

Below is our tour itinerary (we are not doing the Malaysia/Singapore portion) and I have circled the islands where we will be sailing.

I will try to post every day except when we are sailing.  I don’t expect to have internet access then.  We will be home on Feb 22.

 

 

 

November 15, 2018 The Dead Sea to Amman

Today is our last day in Jordan.  We started the day by walking down to the Dead Sea.  We didn’t have our bathing suits on so we just waded in the water.  Unfortunately Rick slipped on some rocks, almost fell in, and cut his foot.  The lifeguard had a first aid kit and got him all patched up.  Not surprisingly the water felt very salty, almost oily.  There were people in the water and you could see that they were very buoyant.

Mustafa picked us up at 11 because we had a number of stops.  We started off by going to Bethany Beyond the Jordan which is the site where John the Baptist baptized Jesus.  It is right on the border with Israel.  The rope you see in the picture is the border.  There were a lot more people on the Israeli side, with some people getting baptized.  I put my feet in but I didn’t go all the way in; the water was very, very muddy.

Then we went to Mt Nebo, the place where Moses was granted a view of the Promised Land before he died. Unfortunately it was pretty foggy so we couldn’t really see Israel.  There was a church with beautiful mosaic floors.

Our last stop was Madaba, a town close to the baptism site and Mt Nebo that is famous for it churches which contain Byzantine and Umayyad mosaics.  We visited the Burnt Palace, Martyrs Church, and Saint George Greek Orthodox Church, which houses the floor map called the Madaba map.  Here are some pictures.

After going to three churches we headed back to Amman.  Our flight left at 2:30am so we had a hotel room until then.  We said good bye to Mustafa.  Here’s a selfie of us.

We got checked into our hotel, went to the grocery to get some dinner and just hung out in the room until midnight when we were picked up to go to the airport.  We managed to stay up until the flight and then got some sleep on the flight to Frankfurt.  An interesting thing happened in Frankfurt, they tested my knitting bag for explosives and it came back positive.  Yikes!!! The security agent said they get a lot of false positives.  The police interviewed me and let me proceed when they saw how innocent I am ;-).  The flight from Frankfurt was uneventful and sleepless.  We are still recovering from the jet lag.

November 14, 2018 Wadi Rum to the Dead Sea

We were up early to watch the sunrise.  It was a little hazy. Here are some pictures.

Mustafa took us on a desert jeep tour after breakfast.  Our first stop was the rock structure across from our camp. He explained that it consisted to two types of rocks, volcanic on the bottom and sedimentary on the top.  Rain water gets trapped between the two layers.  Bedouins knew this and would look for a few plants that typically grow at the interface.  There is often an underground pool of water trapped in a cave.  We climbed a little ways up the rock structure and sure enough plants and a cave with water.

Next stop was a corridor, similar to “The Siq”, which had drawings scratched into the rocks.  I’m pretty sure they were new to augment the tour, but it was cool climbing into the slit in the rocks.

Then we stopped at a rock bridge.  The scenery throughout our drive was beautiful.  I love the desert!

 

Last stop was a sand dune.  Some people were climbing up and trying to snowboard down it, but it didn’t work very well.  I climbed it to take some panoramic pictures, Rick had a cup of coffee.  Unfortunately the blog doesn’t support panoramic pictures so you will have to take my word about how beautiful the scenery was.

We drove out of the desert and headed to Aqaba, a city on the Gulf of Aqaba.  We parked the car and walked down to the water.  From there we could see Israel, Egypt, Saudi Arabia, and of course Jordan.  I put my feet in the water so I could say I’ve been in the Gulf of Aqaba.

We had a nice lunch in Aqaba and then drove on to Dead Sea.  It was dark by the time we got there so we couldn’t see much.  After checking in to our hotel, a Movenpick, we went exploring.  The Movenpick Dead Sea is one of the biggest properties we have ever stayed at.  It has several pools, 9 restaurants, and a beach.

Just a note:  In the last year we have been to the lowest point on earth and the highest point on earth (although we didn’t stand on the highest point).  That evening we had a pizza at the Italian restaurant and watch a belly dancing show.

 

 

November 13, 2018 Petra

We were very excited today because we were going to Petra, definitely one of the highlights of the trip. Petra is believed to have been settled as early as 9,000 BC, and it was possibly established in the 4th century BC as the capital city of the Nabataean Kingdom. The Nabataeans were nomadic Arabs who took advantage of Petra’s proximity to the trade routes and established it as a major regional trading hub.  Most caravans could not make the entire journey between Africa and Europe or Asia, so Petra became a caravan meeting/resting place where goods could be exchanged for the journey to their destination.

The trading business gained the Nabataeans considerable revenue and Petra became the focus of their wealth. They were particularly skillful in harvesting rainwater, developing agriculture and carving stone.  The area is visited by flash floods, and archaeological evidence demonstrates the Nabataeans controlled these floods by the use of dams, cisterns and water conduits. These innovations stored water for prolonged periods of drought and enabled the city to prosper from its sale of water. Petra was at its peak from about 200 BC to about 200 AD.

Petra is approached through a very dramatic, narrow rock corridor called “The Siq.” They had water channels running along the side of the corridor that were at a 2% grade, the optimal grade to keep the water moving freely.  Periodically there were deeper pits which functioned as filters.   Here are some pictures of the siq.

Most of what is left today are tombs.  The wealthier members of society created bigger and more impressive tombs, craved into the mountain sides.  In the larger tombs one level was for the tomb and a second level was a funerary hall.  It varies which was the first floor and which was the second floor.  The people lived on the hills in free standing homes which have been reduced to rumble.  We walked/climbed around and into some of the tombs.  The carving on the tombs was amazing.  They carved from the top down to remove any evidence of the scaffolding they used. Not only were the tombs beautiful, but the rock itself was amazing.  The most famous tomb is called the Treasury because at one time is was believed to be a treasury.  Today it is believed to be a tomb.

There was an amphitheater as well as some later period temples and churches with beautiful mosaic floors.

 

We hiked up to the Monastery which was a tomb that had been converted into a monastery.  We ran into Ben and Vivien on our way up.  We saw them several more times at Petra.  They are really nice people.  We hoped our paths would cross again.

After resting a bit at the cafe in front of the Monastery we walked about 1 1/2 hours back to the car.  We walked almost 11 miles that day.  We planned to spend the night in a Bedouin camp in Wadi Rum and wanted to watch the sunset from there.  We made it to the transfer site just in time.  We loaded our suitcases into a pickup truck and climbed into the back.  We had a wild ride (translation: very fast) to the camp, but made it just in time for the sunset.

We are staying in tents which are pretty basic.

That night we had a Bedouin meal which consisted of chicken and vegetables that were cooked in a pit in the sand.  It was very good.

We went to bed early because we were tried from all the walking and we want to get up early for the sunrise.