Kathryn & Rick's Blog

We started out day by going over to the dock to get fuel and tying up along side it. It was a little nerve wracking because the water wasn’t very deep next to the quay but luckily it was deep enough.  We called the diesel truck and then had to wait about 45 minutes for him.  We got our fuel and got on our way.

We motored for about 6 hours to Apokrisi on Kithnos. 

The little wind that was blowing was right on our nose so we didn’t bother to put up a sail.  The waters were fairly calm so it was an easy ride. 

Mike, Terry, and Rick entertained us with music, signing, and dancing along the way.  Luckily the autopilot was steering the boat.

This was the anchorage outside the harbor.  we decided there were too many boat so we pulled in further and were rewarded with a beautiful little bay.  

It took us several tries to get the anchor stuck but eventually we got it.  After anchoring Terry and Mike went swimming.

We went to dinner on shore at a restaurant with a lovely view.  We played dominoes and I won one game.

Rick and I dinghied into town for breakfast this morning. We had our breakfast and then did a little shopping.  We found a chandlery and bought a hammer to replace the one we’d dropped overboard.  We bought some groceries and some breakfast pastries for our boat mates.  We returned to the boat and Terry, Joanne, Mike, and Kay enjoyed their breakfast.  After everyone ate we readied the boat to leave and pulled the anchor.  When we were in Arachova (near Delphi, about a month ago) a restaurant owner told us that we should go to the Kleftiko Caves on Milos.  He showed us pictures and it looked amazing so that’s where we decided to go.  Our cruising guide has no information about Kleftiko so we are operating in the dark.  We motored to Kleftiko based on where google maps said it is.  We passed interesting rock formations and cliffs.  Eventually we arrived at the caves.  We didn’t have a chart that told us the depth so we motored in VERY slowly and found a spot to anchor.

Kleftiko is a very isolated spot because there are no roads to the bay so it can only be accessed by boat.  It was used by pirates as a shelter and a base.

The bay was absolutely beautiful with amazing rock formations and caves.  The guys swam and then we took turns taking the dinghy out to explore because we always wanted to have someone on the boat in case the wind shifted and we swung around to a nearby rock.  We needn’t have worried because the boat was fine.

Mike and Kay almost didn’t make it back to the boat during their dinghy turn.  We thought the dinghy had run out of gas, but actually the safety cord on the motor had become dislodged.  Luckily they figured out the problem and made it back safely.

Here are pictures from our ride around the bay. Sorry for so many pictures but it was really amazing.

After everyone had a change to explore we pulled the anchor and headed back.  We motored most of the way. The waves had built during the day and the boat rolled a lot on the way back.  We returned to the same bay on Milos we anchored in last night.  It was a very calm bay and we had all slept well so we decided to try it again.  We didn’t get on the hook until 6.

That evening we went into town for dinner.  Nearby there were kids playing in the square.  I haven’t mentioned it but we often see kids playing in the square nearby our restaurants.  They seem to stay up later than we did at their age.  It seems like a great place to grow up!

After dinner we returned to the boat for a round of dominoes.  I came in last in both games.

Today was essentially a transit day.  We motored from Santorini to Milos, about 60 miles and  10 hours away. 

We were going directly into the wind so we couldn’t put a sail up.  Luckily we didn’t have a lot of wind so it made for a pretty easy journey.  Everyone except Rick got a nap and we all made good progress on our books. Here are pictures from our trip.

 

After several tries and one dropped boat hook, which was recovered by a neighbor, we got anchored.  Here are pictures of the harbor.

That evening we went to a restaurant which served typical Milos food.  I had piglet cooked in parchment.  It was very good. We had ice cream for dessert.

We were up early, preparing to leave.  We lashed the dinghy down, wound the shore power cords, removed and coiled our extra ropes, etc.  We were off.  Joanne brought up the anchor and the swivel on the anchor was kinked so it wouldn’t fit through the anchor channel.  It got stuck in the anchor channel as we tried to pull it up.  Terry crawled out onto the bow sprit and hit it with a hammer and it released but not before he hit his foot with the hammer by mistake (he also dropped the hammer into the water). Then we used the snubber hook to lift the anchor onto the deck and manually unkink it.  Next problem . . .  it was coming up upside down. So we took turned it around with the boat hook.  Long story short, it took us about 20 minutes to get the anchor up.  But then we were on our way to Santorini.  We motored most of the way.

Santorini was a round volcanic island until about 21,000 years ago when it erupted and the center of the island collapsed.  It erupted again in 1630 BC and it blew out at least 4 times the amount ejected by the 1883 explosion of Krakatoa.  Today there are five islands that were part of the original island.

We sailed through the caldera created by these explosions (see map below). 

It was very cool to see Santorini’s cliffs which are striped as a result of 2 million years of volcanic activity.  Here are some pictures of us taking pictures.

Here are the pictures.

 

We planned to anchor on the southern end of the island.  As we were rounding the end of the island we saw dozens of catamarans.  We thought it was going to be difficult to find a spot to anchor.  We checked out the first anchorage but Rick didn’t like it because it had a rocky bottom and the anchor might get stuck.  So we proceeded to the second anchorage called Akrotiri and it was better so we anchored (although the boat is really rocking as I write this so I’m not sure it is much better).

We had lunch on board and then prepared to go into town.  Terry decided he’d stay with the boat. We dinghed ashore and discovered that there was a bus to Fira, the main town.

In town we followed some of Rick Steves’ walking tour.  The town was full of shops, many of them jewelry stores, and frankly it was pretty touristy but the views were magnificent.  Here are some pictures.

It was very hot and we were in the sun most of the time.  After we finished the tour we stopped in a restaurant to have a cold drink and admire the views.  We decided it was too hot to go to Oia, another town at the far end of the island, so we caught the bus back to Akrotiri harbor and then dinghied back to the boat. Here are pictures of the harbor and the moon that night.  

We feel lucky that we made it to Santorini because it looked like it wasn’t going to happen, given the lack of a proper anchorage and exposure to wind and waves.

The wind was still blowing pretty good this morning.  Rick and I went into town to get some breakfast.  After breakfast we were relaxing when Rick noticed that our swim platform was going to hit the pier.  He hustled off the boat and tried to hold the boat off the dock.  I quickly got a fender off the side and tried to wedge it between the swim platform and the concrete pier, unfortunately not before we dinged the corner of the swim platform.  The other side has  been patched so clearly it’s not the first time it happened.

We were drifting back to the pier because our anchor had slipped.  We quickly released the lines and pulled up the anchor.  Then we remoored the boat.  Mike had gone for a walk and so we were down a person.  Terry stayed on the dock to catch the lines as we came back in and Joanne was on the anchor so it was Kay and me on the boat handling the lines.  We did it and got safely reanchored but not before we had a few tense moments.

Then we watched as one of our neighbors pulled their anchor to leave however their anchor was stuck on something.  We were afraid that our anchor was lying over their anchor but it turned out that it was caught on a rock.  They had to call a diver who dove the anchor and released it.  Of course we had to watched the whole thing.

We also watched the ferries arrive, dock, and depart.  Some of the ferries were huge as you can see in the picture below.

After they sailed off Rick and I walked up to the church overlooking the marina.  Here are some pictures from the walk to the church as well as pictures of the church.

We came back to the boat.  In the morning Mike had climbed up the hill to the main town and he said it was interesting, my book mentioned it as well so I decided I would go up there and check it out.  Rick wanted to stay with the boat  because he was concerned the anchor would slip again.  I ended up taking the bus up and down the hill because it was pretty hot.  I was pleased with myself that I managed the bus on my own.  Here are some pictures from my walk up in the main town.

Meanwhile Rick and Terry were helping other boats come in and watching as the anchors on other boats were slipping.

That evening we went to dinner in shifts so we always had four people on the boat.  Although by the evening the wind died down.

We were up early because we were planning to leave by 7 however another boat was over our anchor.  So we had to wait until 8:30 before they were up and then the guy didn’t want to move his boat.  Eventually Rick convinced him he needed to move.  We were on our way by 9:00.

Rick had decided that the anchorage in Santorini wasn’t secure enough to handle the upcoming winds so we decided to go back to the main port of Ios.  That had the additional advantage of allowing us to get more diesel fuel. We motored up the coast and pulled into the harbor.  There was a lot of activity in the harbor so we had to wait until a couple of other boats left.  Mooring the boat was difficult and we had to try twice before we were in.  We got the boat situated and then called for the truck to come deliver oil to us.  Once we were situated we had lunch and then I walked around town.  There really not much to see.

I came back and relaxed until later that afternoon when the marina came over and told us we were taking up to spaces and needed to move over.  That was quite an effort to move the boat over laterally but eventually we got it.

That evening Rick and I went out to a very nice dinner in town.  By the time we went to bed the wind was really blowing.  Always a little nerve racking to go to bed when the wind is blowing so hard.

Happy Birthday Kay 🎂🎈🎁

Another beautiful day.  I haven’t mentioned the weather much but we have had perfect days (other than the wind).  No rain and very comfortable temperature on the water. 

After a little breakfast we left Golden Beach on Paros.  The wind had picked up from yesterday.  We are headed to Ios which is supposed to be a real party island.   

We motor sailed to the main port of Ios where we planned to get fuel.  However it was really windy and the direction of the wind was unfavorable to get into the dock easily, so we circled around for awhile, watched a catamaran dock and then decided to bag it and move on.  The gauge says we have more than 1/2 tank which in theory should be plenty for the rest of the trip, but we have had boats with faulty gauges before.  Here are pictures of the main port on Ios. 

We sailed down the coast of Ios on reefed sails.  We anchored in Manganari on the southern coast of Ios.

We had dinner on the boat that night.

We started out the day with a “boat meeting.”  We know the winds are going to pick up again on Friday and Saturday so we need to find a safe harbor to “hide” from the Meltemi.  We would like to be on an island that has a ferry to Santorini.  Our current plan was to stay on Paros in a different harbor and hopefully take the ferry to Santorini on Saturday, but after checking the ferry schedule that wasn’t going to work so we are back to figuring out our plan.

After our “meeting” we went into town.  We split up and Rick and I went had breakfast, walked around, and did some grocery shopping.  We visited Church of Panaya of Ekatontapiliani,  literally the church with 100 doors which is a historic Byzantine church complex. The origin of the church’s name is obscure, as it does not have one hundred doors, or gates. The church dates to 326 BC. Its oldest features likely predate the adoption of Christianity as the state religion of the Roman Empire in 391. The church was purportedly founded by the mother of the Roman Emperor Constantine the Great (ruled 306–337), Saint Helen, during her pilgrimage to the Holy Land when she stopped to worship at a chapel on the island. Later Justinian is credited for initiating construction on the site as well.  Here are pictures from our town tour including a picture of the income ferry with hordes of people.

We went back to the boat and prepared to leave.  There wasn’t much wind and the seas were calm so we didn’t put the dinghy on the deck and we left the motor on the dinghy.  

We weren’t far out of the harbor and decided that the motor could fall off the dinghy so we stopped and moved the motor to its position on the back of the boat. Like I said, we were lucky that the seas were calm.

We motored to Naoussa which is one option for riding out the storm.  We toured the harbor which had several huge yachts, one had a lot of toys, a couple of relatively small sailboats, jet skis, kayaks, a slide, etc. but decided not to stay there. 

We continued on and anchored at Golden Beach on Paros which is a beautiful beach with a couple of resorts. 

We were the only boat in the harbor.  Terry, Mike, Kay, and Rick went swimming while Joanne and I guarded the boat.  😉

That evening we talked some more about our route but no decision was made.  I think we are going to have trouble fitting in all the places we want to go.

We dinghied to shore and had to beach the dinghy so it was a “wet landing.”  We had a nice dinner, followed by a game of spades.

Here are some pictures of Golden Beach.

The wind continued to howl all night but by morning it seemed like the gusts were getting further and further apart.  We had planned to leave at 7:30 but it was too windy so we all relaxed and waited for the wind to die down.  Rick and I walked to the bakery and got breakfast.  By 10:00 the wind had quieted a little more and we got ready to leave.  This involved lashing the dinghy to the deck, disconnecting the shore power, topping off our water tanks, and securing the swim platform and the gangplank.

We released the rear lines and started motoring forward as Joanne raised the anchor.  Terry and I were positioned to fend off neighboring boats but it wasn’t necessary.  It was a very easy departure.  We were off the hook (sailor talk for raising our anchor) by 10:40.  We had an easy motor/sail to Parikia, Paros.

Paros is a ferry hub and one of its main claims to fame is it white marble which was used for the Venus de Milo and Napoleon’s tomb.

We pulled into the harbor at about 3 and were anchored by 3:30.  We enjoyed some cheese and crackers on deck in this calm anchorage.  The meltemi is sleeping for the moment but is expected to rear its ugly head again on Friday.

We napped or read our books for the rest of the afternoon.  That evening we went into the town of Parikia, the main town on Paros, for dinner.  We had a nice dinner in a small square under a huge tree.   Here are pictures from the boat and from our walk to the restaurant.

And then back to the boat for dominoes.

Last night it was super windy.  I woke up several times to the howling wind.  The boat was being pushed around by the wind as much as it good be considering our mooring.  Rick got up at least once to check that everything was ok.

I woke up to the smell of bacon, Kay was making bacon.  Yum! 😋 We had a big delicious breakfast of eggs, bacon, and toast.

After breakfast we applied for an international drivers license for Rick so that we could rent a car.  While we were waiting for the license to come through Rick and I swabbed the boat. The license came through and we went across the street to the car rental agency.  Just Rick and I were touring the island.  Terry, Joanne, Mike, and Kay had decided to stay in town and explore. We got a little Fiat Panda and off we went.  Here is a map of our route.

Along the way we saw dovecotes which I didn’t know what they were.  They were places for pigeons to nest because the islanders wanted to use the pigeon dung as fertilizer.  In the past they ate the pigeons too but no longer.

As we traveled up and over the mountains in the center of the island the wind got even stronger.  At one point I wanted to get out of the car to take a picture and the wind was so strong that I couldn’t open the car door without Rick’s help.  Rick thought it was somewhere around 45 knots of wind.

We had lunch in a beautiful bay on the northeast side of the island. 

Here are some other pictures of our tour.

The car company gave us explicit directions that we needed to fill up the car before bringing it back.  We stopped at a gas station which was on a hill just before town and watched the attendant filled the tank, however when we started up the car it wasn’t showing as full.  We told them about it at the car rental office and they told us it wasn’t full because we were on a hill when filling, who knew a hill would make such a difference.

We got back to the boat around 6. Since we had a big lunch we weren’t hungry for dinner so we stayed at the boat while the rest went to dinner.  

Here is a movie that I took in an effort to show how windy it was.