January 26, 2018

At last night’s orientation meeting they told us about an optional trip to Tierra del Fuego National Park. We didn’t sign up for it because we wanted to explore Ushuaia. However after walking through the town last night, we realized that we had seen most of it. So we were able to jump on the tour.

Here are some pictures of Ushuaia taken from our hotel up on the hill. I have circled our ship.

Our guide on the Tierra Del Fuego tour was very good. One of the interesting things we learned about is the problem with beavers. In 1947, fur traders introduced beavers into the area. However because the climate conditions were different from the north, the beaver’s coats were not thick enough and could not be used by the fur traders. So they abandoned the project as well as the beavers. In the last 70 years the beaver population has exploded from 50 to 200,000. They have no natural predators. They fall a lot trees and the issue is that trees grow very slowly because of the harsh weather. The government is allowing beaver hunting in an effort to eliminate the beavers.

Our first stop in the park was a glacier lake. The southernmost post office in the world is located on the shore. Here are some pictures from this stop.

Next we stopped at another lake and took a short walk along the lake where we saw black neck swans. Here are pictures from this stop.

The final stop was at the end of the Pan-America highway which starts in Alaska and ends in Argentina.

After the tour we were dropped off in the town where we went out for a late lunch. Ushuaia is well known for king crab and sea bass. Most of the restaurants have a tank with king crabs crawling around in their window. Our guide recommended Freddy’s Cantina. They had the tank in the window. Rick had grilled sea bass and said it was excellent. I had a salad. We watched other people have crab. They would pull the crab out of the tank and the waiter and customer would weigh the crab and then they would take it off and cook it.

After lunch we went over to the meeting point to get the bus to the ship. Finally the moment we have been waiting for had arrived. We were greeted by the expeditionary leader and had to turn over our passports before being ushered to our cabin.

We had a few minutes to get settled before there was a briefing meeting where we met the expeditionary staff. The staff includes

Hayley Expedition Leader
Adam Expedition Naturalist, specializing in birds
Hannah Expedition Naturalist, specializing in marine mammals
Sophie Expedition Staff, specializing in kayaking
Ewan Expedition Staff, specializing in kayaking
Ashley Expedition Staff
Thomas Expedition Staff, specializing in photography
Jim Expedition Staff, specializing in geology
Tom Ship’s Doctor
Seb Expedition Staff, specializing in history

The ship’s doctor gave us a talk on safety, the importance of good hygiene to reduce an “epidemic” on the ship and, of course, sea sickness.

After the meeting we had our emergency drill. We had to muster with our life jackets in the lounge and then, once we had been counted, we had to go up to our station where we would have gotten into the life boats as they lowered them.

That evening we had a nice dinner. Interestingly they serve everyone at the same time. The seating is open so you can sit with different people at every meal or you can sit alone.

January 25, 2018

Today is a travel day. We flew from Iguazu to Ushuaia, with a stop in Cordoba. The flights were long but uneventful. We left our Iguazu hotel at 7:00 am and arrived at our Ushuaia hotel around 5:00 pm. After collecting our baggage in Ushuaia we were met by a representative from the cruising company who took us to our hotel. Our hotel was quite fancy.

We had a bite to eat at the hotel and then went to welcome briefing at which they told us the details of embarkation. We met quite a few really nice people that will be on our ship. It will be hard to remember everyone’s name because there are 114 people. After the welcome briefing we took a shuttle to the downtown area. There lots of shops and restaurants on the Main Street. Ushuaia has about 65k inhabitants. We walked around the town down area but weren’t hungry after our snack the at the hotel.

We caught the 9:30 shuttle back and had another snack in the hotel.

Blogging break

Today is Friday, January 26 and we embark on the ship this afternoon.  The ship has very limited internet access.  I will be writing the blog everyday but I’m not sure when I will post the entries.  Worst case it will all go up when we disembark.

Meanwhile, GO PATRIOTS.  We won’t be able to watch the game so cheer for us!

January 24, 2018

We had a relaxing morning. We did a few errands, picking up things we had forgot to bring and returning the car. After lunch at the hotel, we were picked up for our tour of the Brazilian side of the falls. The majority of the falls are in Argentina. We are guessing that a quarter of them are in Brazil.

Brazil is right across the river, 10 miles from our hotel but it took awhile to get to the Brazilian National Park because we had to emigrate out of Argentina and immigrate into Brazil. We had an interesting discussion on the way; our guide was born in Argentina but now lived in Brazil. He told us that the Brazilian economy is much more stable, opportunities much more plentiful, and Argentinean’s go to Brazil to shop so we assume the prices are lower.

It had become overcast and the sky was getting darker and darker. While we were waiting for our guide to get us tickets into the park, the skies opened up and it started to rain. We waited briefly to see if it would stop and then forged ahead even though it hadn’t stopped. About half along the 1 km trail it stopped raining.

Initially we could see the Argentinian falls. We were far enough away that we could see most of them. As we continued to walk we started to see the Brazilian falls as well as the Argentinian ones. The falls were even bigger than what we had seen yesterday and we were amazed by the size of them then. At the end of the walk we were by a fall that dropped half way to a small plateau and then dropped further. The trail went to the bottom of the first drop and then walked over to the top of the second drop. As we walked to the end of the trail it was very windy due to the turbulence from the falls. There was also a lot of spray and I went to the end and got quite wet.

We learned today that the falls are one of the seven natural wonders of the world. They definitely deserve that recognition. Here are a bunch of pictures and a couple of videos so you can hear how loud and expansive they are.

We returned to the hotel, had an appetizer at the bar, and returned to our room to pack up. We leave at 7 tomorrow morning for the airport and onto Ushuaia.

January 23, 2018

Today we went to the Argentinian side of Iguazu falls. They are the largest waterfall system in the world, a chain of waterfalls almost 2 miles wide.

This is from the Lonely Planet guidebook, “According to Guaraní tradition, the falls originated when a warrior named Caroba incurred the wrath of a forest god by escaping downriver in a canoe with a young girl, Naipur, with whom the god was infatuated. Enraged, the god caused the riverbed to collapse in front of the lovers, producing a line of precipitous falls over which Naipur fell and, at their base, turned into a rock. Caroba survived as a tree overlooking it.


Geologists have a more prosaic version. The Río Iguazú’s course takes it over a basaltic plateau that ends abruptly just short of the confluence with the Paraná. Where the lava flow stopped, thousands of cubic meters of water per second now plunge down as much as 80m into sedimentary terrain below. Before reaching the falls, the river divides into many channels with rocks and islands separating the many distinct cascades that together form the famous 2.7km-long cataratas (waterfalls).”


We got lost several times on the way to the park but eventually found it.

There were three trails around the falls, upper, lower and Devil’s Throat. As the names suggests the upper trail is a set of trails/grated metal walkways above the falls and the lower trail was below the falls.

We walked on trails through the rainforest to get to the falls. This picture of the rain forest shows how dense the vegetation is.



There were lots of coati, a member of the raccoon family, and capuchin monkeys around. In fact there were warnings about how aggressive they can be to get food. We also saw lots of butterflies, several turtles, and an alligator.


The falls were simply amazing. The roar of the water was loud. You really felt the power of Mother Nature. Words cannot describe it so I will leave it to the pictures . . .

From the upper trail

From the lower trail

From Devil’s Throat

One interesting sign said that 40 years ago the water on the falls was clear but there has been so much logging that now the water looks reddish-brownish from all the soil run off. (The soil is very red here due to the fast decomposition of organic material.). Of course they are trying to remediate that.

After the falls, we returned to the room. We walked into town to get groceries and had our typical picnic for dinner. Off to the Brazilian side of the falls tomorrow.

January 22, 2018

Not the most exciting day . . .

We spend the morning with Roberto. We went to see family graves and then he showed us a little more of the town. We went back to the house, picked up Ingrid, and went to a restaurant for lunch. They had a salad bar and bought trays of grilled meat to the table. It was very good.

After a sad goodbye (we plan to see Roberto when we go to Switzerland), we headed north to Puerto Iguazu. The drive took about 2 hours. We got checked into our hotel and then explored the property and the town. We bought our food for dinner at the local grocery store and had a picnic in the room.

I told you it wasn’t very exciting.

January 21, 2018

We were up very early to catch a flight to Iguazu Falls.  We were a little nervous that the airline would have a problem with one of our suitcases which weighs slightly over 50 pounds but they didn’t say a word.  The flight was uneventful.

When we arrived in Iguazu, we rented a car and drove about 2 hours to Puerto Rico.  We went through two police checkpoints.  We didn’t have to stop at the first one and at the second one we told the police officer that we don’t speak any Spanish and she just waved us through.  We think they are looking for drugs coming from Brazil or Paraguay.

Once in Puerto Rico we couldn’t find the hotel and ended up driving up and down the Main Street several times.  Finally we found it and got checked in.   We had come to Puerto Rico because Rick’s cousin, Ingrid, lives there.  Rick’s great grandfather was Swiss and had seven sons.  Several of them including Rick’s grandfather went to Prussia and Ingrid’s father, Adolph, came to Argentina in 1937. Rick’s grandfather and Adolph were brothers and the two brothers married two sisters.  If you are following this, Rick’s  grandmother and Ingrid’s mother were sisters.  This cousin is Lily’s aunt.  For those of you that followed our Spain trip, you may remember we met Lily when we stayed at Irene’s (another cousin) condo in Denia, Spain.  Lily’s twin brother and Ingrid’s nephew, Roberto, who lives in Basel, Switzerland, was visiting Ingrid.  I guess we had met him in 2010 at the family reunion but I met a lot of people that day. Bottom line the Mansers are taking over the world.  😉

Ingrid and Roberto showed up at the hotel just as we were leaving to come to them. We tried to go to lunch but the restuarant was closed so we ended up at the local Shell station for empanadas.  Seemed a little weird but we went with it.  After lunch, Roberto showed us around the town.

Eventually we ended up at Ingrid’s house which was a small two bedroom house.  We reviewed the family genealogy and talked some more.  Actually Rick talked to Ingrid and Roberto in German and I tried to follow along.  My German is worse than my Spanish which is really bad.  Here’s a picture of the four of us.

We came back to our hotel to follow the Patriots game.  Go Pats!!

Then we met for dinner (at 8:30 and we were one of the first people at the restaurant, I told you they eat late).  We had a great dinner and great conversation (I think) with them.

 

January 20, 2018

  • Happy Birthday Rick 🎂🎉🎊🎁🎈

This morning we took the subway to Plaza de Mayo.  This is the colonial section of the city.  Here are some pictures.

We walked along Calle Florida, which is a pedestrian retail street and over to Plaza de Mayo.   From here we had a great view of the Puerto Madero, with its modern buildings.

We saw the La Casa Rosada, the executive mansion and office of the President of Argentina. Eva Perron gave speeches to masses from the balcony of La Casa Rosada.  They give tours of the building but we didn’t do that.  You can see they are doing construction on the Plaza.

The Buenos Aires Metropolitan Cathedral is also in the Plaza.  The Cathedral of Buenos Aires was rebuilt several times since its humble origins in the 16th century. The present building is a mix of architectural styles, with an 18th-century nave and dome and a severe, 19th-century Neoclassical façade without towers. The interior keeps precious 18th-century statues and altarpieces, as well as abundant Neo-Renaissance and Neo-Baroque decoration.  Here are pictures of Cathedral.

By this time we were hungry for lunch so we walked back to     Puerto Madero and had a very nice lunch to celebrate Rick’s birthday.

On our way back to the subway we saw the Obelisco de Buenos Aires, which is a national historic monument and icon of Buenos Aires, and 9 de Julio Avenue. The Obelisk is located in the Plaza de la República in the intersection of avenues Corrientes and 9 de Julio and was erected in 1936 to commemorate the quadricentennial of the first foundation of the city.  9 de Julio Avenue is the widest avenue in the world, with 8 lanes of traffic in each direction. Its name honors Argentina’s Independence Day, July 9, 1816.

We took took the subway back to our hotel and relaxed for awhile.  Later that evening we went out for birthday pizza.

The Argentines eat very late, similar to the Spanish.  People start showing up at restaurants at 9, even with little kids.

 

January 19, 2018

After walking a ridiculous amount yesterday, we decided to take the subway. The subway is very easy and cheap, less than $0.50, one way. We went to the Puerto Madero section of the city. As we came out of the subway we were looking at the map, trying to figure out what direction to go when a older gentleman asked us if we needed help. It turned out that he had married an Argentinian woman 50 years earlier and now spends 6 months a year in the US and 6 months a year in Argentina. He told us that the government had invested a lot of money to build the port but it had many problems and was never successful. More recently the government had developed the area into a very nice residential and commercial area. He said it was a desirable place to live because it was run by the navy which is less corrupt than the police who are responsible for the rest of the city.

Based on his suggestion, we walked out towards the river and found the ecological reserve.  We walked through the old/revitalized port area.

This is the Puente de la Mujer or bridge of the lady which was opened in 2001.  A number of streets in the Puerto Madero district have women’s names, thus giving the bridge its name.

Finally we arrived at the reserve which is amazing.  This 360-hectare ecological reserve was created on top of the refuse of a former dump site.  We didn’t feel like we were in the city as we walked the dirt paths.  It was very hot.  Eventually we came to a break in the foliage and could see the river.  It is very muddy and expansive, we couldn’t see the other side.

Puerto Madero has many very modern buildings.  Here’s a picture of a couple of the big buildings as seen from the reserve.

I thought the reflection of the one building in the other building was cool.

We had lunch at a restaurant in one of the renovated dock buildings.  We watched this little boat clean up the water; essentially it was an aqua street cleaner.

We continued walking and were trying to get to Plaza de Mayo but once again got a little lost and ended up at the other end of Plaza San Martin.  Here’s a picture of the clock at the Plaza.

By this time we were very hot, sweaty, tired, and our feet hurt so we took a cab back to the hotel.

That evening we went to dinner and a tango show.  The food at the restaurant was ok.  We sat next to two ladies from Spain who spoke no English but we managed to have a conversation with them even so.  The tango show traced the history of the tango.  It was well done and enjoyable.   Below are a couple of blurry pictures from the show.

 

 

January 18, 2018

After a yummy breakfast at the hotel we started walking. We were headed to the river. Buenos Aires is on the Rio de la Plata, the estuary formed by the confluence of the Uruguay and the Paraná rivers. It is the widest river in the world, 140 miles at its widest. It is not very deep.

Unfortunately we got turned around and walked away from the river. We walked about an 1 1/2 miles before we realized we were going the wrong way. Oops! After turning around, we ended up at Cementerio de la Recoleta. Before exploring the cemetery we had a late lunch in a nearby square. This tree (not sure of the type) was in the square. I liked this statue of the man holding up a branch.

After lunch we visited the Basilica Nuestra Señora Del Pilar. It was completed in 1732 and is the second oldest church in Buenos Aires.

Eventually we explored the cemetery. It contains many elaborate marble mausoleums, decorated with statues, in a wide variety of architectural styles such as Art Deco, Art Nouveau, Baroque, and Neo-Gothic. There is “street” after “street” of mausoleums, some of which are ridiculously ornate. We found Eva Perron’s tomb. Here are some pictures of the cemetery.

 

The city map we have has some walks so after the cemetery we did the “Little Paris Walk” which ended at Plaza St Martin. Here are some pictures from our walk and the monument dedicated to Jose de San Martin, an Argentine general and the prime leader of the southern part of South America’s successful struggle for independence from the Spanish Empire.

It was very hot and luckily a thunderstorm rolled through to cool it off. We ducked into a little mall to stay dry.

We walked back to the hotel.  I had an ice cream at Freddos, thanks Sally for the recommendation.  We had dinner in the room again.

According to my phone we did 29,775 steps and 13.35 miles. Yikes! Oh and we both have blisters on our feet, not surprising!