June 5, 2019 Andros

We had a calm night and everyone slept pretty well.  Rick made breakfast, pork hash, with the leftovers, and eggs.  After a hardy breakfast we got ready to leave.  We decided to go to Tinos.  We pulled the anchor and were off.

There wasn’t much wind.  We put the sails up but we couldn’t keep the jib filled so we took it down and motored a good portion of the way.  Eventually the wind built up but it was coming from the wrong direction so we had to change plans and decided to go to Andros.  We pulled into the beautiful harbor of Korthion and anchored.

We had a late lunch and then relaxed for the afternoon.  I finished my book, The Mountain Between Us (which I liked).  We had decided to have dinner on board.  We had some food that needed to be eaten.  Rick spent the afternoon cooking. 

Over cocktail hour we made a plan for the next several days.

We had an excellent dinner.  After clean up we had our usual game of dominoes.

June 4, 2019 Syros

We decided to explore this morning.  We went back into the little area where we had dinner and Rick, Kay, Mike, and I walked into town while Terry and Joanne took headed in in the dinghy.  We had some beautiful views during our short walk, maybe 20 minutes.  Here are some pictures.

We arrived in the town and checked out the thermal springs which were quite hot. 

We wandered around the town a little, it was quite small.  They had a good grocery store so we got a few items and then dinghied back to the boat.  

It took us a while to get unmoored.  We had to take the dinghy to the shore, untie the rope, bring it back to the boat and then get the dinghy onto the deck all before pulling up the anchor.   We headed out and we knew we were either going to Andros, Tinos, or Syros (if you look these islands up they might be spelled slightly different since they are be translated from Greek letters to Roman letters). We couldn’t sail because we were headed directly into the wind.  We ended up at Kini beach on Syros. 

We were the first boat into the bay but by the time we went to bed there were 6 boats in the harbor.

We relaxed in the afternoon, watching the other boats anchor.  Actually we were protecting our boat from other skippers who didn’t know what they were doing and were attempting to anchor too close to us.

That evening we went took the dinghy into the town and had very nice dinner.  Here are some pictures.  

Of course dominoes that night.

June 3, 2019 Kithnos

No one slept well last night and everyone was late to rise.  The crew considered mutiny, but we decided we would give our captain a second chance.

After breakfast we lowered the dinghy because we wanted to go explore the Temple of Poseidon.  In the Cyclades the sailboats don’t tow their dinghy like in other places we’ve been, rather the dinghy is lashed to the deck.  So this was our first opportunity to lower the dinghy.  Luckily there is a halyard which we can attached to the dinghy to raise it up using a power winch.  We performed the task easily.  We all loaded into the dinghy which is quite small and rated for just 4 people (we all had our life jackets on just in case.  It was fine and we didn’t wear life jackets after that.)

Our cruising guide didn’t tell us where to go ashore and there wasn’t a dinghy dock.  We decided to beach the dinghy next to one of the resorts.  We had a little trouble finding the trail up to the temple but after asking at the resort we were on our way.   It was about a 10 minute walk.

The temple was built the same year as the Parthenon.  Sixteen of the Doric columns remain.  There wasn’t a lot to explore up there but the views were impressive.  Here are some pictures.

We returned to the boat.  Here are pictures of the boat from the dinghy.

We had lunch on the boat.  After lunch Rick and Joanne consider the winds and identified a good place for us to go that would be protected.  They decided that we should go to the town of Loutra on Kithnos. 

We had great wind and we sailed most of the way. We got the boat up to 9 kts which is the hull speed of the boat.  Here’s a picture of lighthouse along the way.

We pulled into a beautiful, calm harbor of Loutra. 

It was a little tricky mooring—we dropped the anchor and then we had to lower the dinghy and use it to take a line from the back of our boat to the shore.  The cruising guide said there would be rings that we could tie up to but the one we found was no longer attached to the ground so we ended up tying off to a rock. 

Once we were situated we relaxed a little before going in to the town for dinner. 

We had a nice dinner and then returned to the boat for dominoes.  We had a very calm and restful sleep!

 

June 2, 2019 Sounion

Happy Birthday Dad! 🎂🎈🎁🥳

We had a good night on pier.  We had a little breakfast and were off.  Rick is always a little nervous when we first leave and this time was no different.  The boats were packed in tight but we were able to get away without any problems.

We were headed to Cape Sounion which is on the mainland and the site of the Temple of Poseidon. 

The red flag is the marina and I have circled Sounion.

We put up the main and the jib and were making good time.  We arrived at Sounion and we anchored the boat with the Temple looming over us.  We had a late lunch on the boat.  There were two resorts. The bay had quite a few boats anchored, including one huge yacht.  People from the resort were swimming around the boats.

As it got later in the afternoon the wind and waves picked up.  We were rolling quite a bit but it was too late to move.  We decided we didn’t feel like going ashore to eat so Rick and crew cooked pork chops, potatoes, broccoli, and a salad.  We had quite a feast.  That evening we play dominoes.

Then we went to bed and we were really rolling.  The dishes and glasses were clanking.  It was really unpleasant.  I took a Tylenol PM and eventually got to sleep.  Rick was up a lot making sure that our anchor wasn’t dragging.

June 1, 2019 Athens

We are off to the boat today.  We had arranged a car to pick us up at 11.  Unfortunately the driver had trouble finding us, but eventually we connected.  We arrived at the boat to learn that they were still cleaning it from the last charter so we couldn’t  get on yet. 

Kay and I watched our suitcases while Rick and the rest of the crew took care of paperwork.  Next we went to provision while Joanne stayed with our stuff.  Shopping was somewhat chaotic because it was a small space and we didn’t know where anything was.  Eventually we figured it out and ended up with lots of food. 

Unfortunately the boat was still not ready when we got back.  We were able to put the food in the cockpit, under the bimini, so the food didn’t get too warm. After about a half an hour they finished cleaning and we were able to get on to put everything away and unpacked.  The cabins are quiet small but the common area is pretty big.  Here are some pictures of the boat as well as Mike and Kay and a Terry and Joanne.

We waited for awhile and eventually someone came to “check us in.” This is when someone from the charter company shows us the intricacies of the boat. Also a skipper from the charter company came by and talked about potential itineraries.  Finally there was an issue with the gps so the base manager had to come to fix it.  We had considered leaving in the afternoon but it was much too late by the time we were ready to go.

None of us felt like going out to eat so we had food delivered.  It was surprisingly good.  After cleaning up we played dominoes.

Rick and I slept well, considering how narrow our bed is.

May 31, 2019 Athens

We had a leisurely morning.  Eventually we got organized and walked around the national garden. It was very pretty but there weren’t a lot of flowers, mostly forested areas and even a few animals, birds and sheep, in cages.

Next Rick wanted to walk by a couple of neoclassical building we had driven by the day before on our city tour with Nina.  Here are some pictures.

At this point we were hungry so we walked over to a cute place we had seen the night before.  We had very nice lunch at a cafe that was on stairs up the hill to the Acropolis.

After lunch I wanted to go to the Ancient Agora and everyone else was feeling jet lagged so they went back to the apartment.  While the Acropolis was the ceremonial showpiece, the Agora was the real heart of ancient Athens.  It was the hub of all commercial, political, and social life in Athens from approximately 600BC until 267AD. Most of it is rubble with the exception of a rebuilt stoa, an ancient shopping mall. I listened to Rick Steves audio tour which really helped create an image of what it would have looked like 2,500 years ago.  Here are some pictures.

I walked back to the apartment and everyone was either napping or relaxing.  That evening we walked to the market bought a couple of pizzas for dinner.  After the pizza we played our first game of dominoes.

May 30, 2019 Athens

The guys went to get croissants so we had a great start to the day.  We decided the best way to get a good introduction to the city was to do Rick Steves’ city walk. We walked by walking through Syntagma Square, the main square of Athens and then by the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier where there was a changing of the guard.  I didn’t take a video but here  is one from YouTube.

Then we went on to see several famous churches and several famous streets.  We saw Hadrian’s Gate from the first century AD which was the transition from the old Greek Athens to the “new” city, Hadrianpolis, which was built by, you guessed it, Hadrian.

We continued the tour until we ended up in a nice courtyard where we decided to have a coffee.  Here are pictures from our walk.

The next stop on the Rick Steves tour was the Acropolis. We had a tour scheduled that afternoon for the Acropolis so we decided to stop the tour and go back to the apartment.  I took a nap because I’m still fighting my cold.  We went out for a late lunch and then came back to our apartment to be picked up for our tour.

Our tour guide, Nina, was waiting for us  in front of the building.  Our first stop was the Acropolis.  We learned how Athens got its name.

Cecrops, a strange creature, half-man half-snake, was the founder of a city. Cecrops had named his city after himself, Cecropia. However, the gods of Olympus saw this lovely piece of land and wanted to name it after themselves and become its patron. The most persistent rivals were Poseidon, the sea god, and Athena, the goddess of wisdom.  To solve their dispute, Zeus decided that each of them would make a gift to the city and king Cecrops would decide which gift was the best and therefore which god would be the patron of the city. One sunny day, Cecrops and the residents of the city went up to a high hill to watch the gods giving their gifts. Poseidon was the first to present his gift. He struck a rock with his trident and caused a spring of water to gush forth from the ground. This signified that he was assuring the citizens would always have water and therefore they wouldn’t face any droughts. However, the people were not enchanted with his gift because the water from the spring tasted salty, just like the waters of the sea over which Poseidon ruled. Next was the goddess Athena’s turn.  She planted a seed in the ground, which grew up to be a lovely olive tree. The citizens liked this gift better because it would give them food, oil and firewood. With one voice they loudly acclaimed Athena as their benefactress.

We went up to the Acropolis which means a fortification on a hill.  Over the years the Acropolis had many different functions but it started off as temples to the goddess Athena.  The Parthenon is one of the temples.  It was very impressive.  Here are pictures of the Acropolis and from the Acropolis.

Then we went to the Acropolis museum and Nina showed us around.  Many of the sculptures are in the British museum and Greece has been trying to get them back but haven’t yet been successful.  Our driver then picked us up and Nina gave us a driving tour of the Athens.  Many of the sites we had seen during our wandering.  After awhile we said goodbye to our driver and Nina give us a walking tour through the city.  She was very knowledgeable and gave us a lot of information but by now it was about 9:00 in the evening and we were all very tired.  We thanked her and said goodbye when we arrived at our apartment.  Everyone fell into bed after a long day.

May 29, 2019 Athens

We had kind of a lazy day.  I think I am fighting a cold and Rick has had a sore shoulder for a couple of days so we decided to take it easy.  Also we have our friends joining us and we didn’t want to do something they would want to do.

So we wandered around a bit.

We went to Mars Hill where Apostle Paul preached to the Athenians.  It had great views of the Acropolis and of Athens, but the rocks were very slippery from centuries of pedestrians.

Then we tried to see the Theater of Dionysus but you needed a ticket.  We have a guide scheduled for tomorrow and she will be taking us to the Acropolis so hopefully we will see it then.

We wandered over to the Arch of Hadrian.  We also walked by Hadrian’s library.

Here are photos from our walk.

We returned to the apartment for a little while before going out to lunch.

After lunch we walked back and sat outside at the cafe in front of our apartment to wait for our friends.  They arrived at about 4:30.  They got settled and we visited for a little while before going out to dinner.  After dinner we walked around the Acropolis before returning to the apartment where everyone fell into bed.

 

May 28, 2019 Athens

Today was a travel day.  We left our mountain retreat this morning and drove three hours to the marina, just outside of Athens, where we will pick up our boat on Saturday. We dropped off a suitcase and a backpack there.  They will hold them for us until Saturday.  Since we’re dropping off the car at the airport we didn’t want to drag the stuff into the city and then back out to the boat.

After the marina we went to the airport, dropped off the car, and took a taxi to our apartment.  Terri and Joanne and Mike and Kay are flying in tomorrow so we need a three bedroom apartment.  Our apartment is very spacious and well appointed. It’s in the Plaka district, which is at the foot of the Acropolis.  According to Rick Steves, it is “one of the only parts of town that has a vibrant atmosphere and an Old World feel.”

We dropped off our stuff in the apartment and went out for a late lunch/early dinner.  We found a place not too far from the apartment.  After eating we wandered a little so that we could see the Acropolis.  It was hard to really get a sense of it but it looked majestic up on the hill.

Then we came back to the apartment to do some laundry.  It took us a while to figure out using google translate which bottle, of many, was laundry detergent and how to work the washing machine.  I haven’t mentioned the Greek letters but, of course, everything is written in Greek.  Rick has memorized most of the letters and he can sound things out, but I’m not so good at it.  Only problem is sounding things out only helps if you know the Greek word.

After starting the laundry we went back out to find a supermarket.  The first one we tried to go to was not where google said it was so we found another one much closer to the apartment.

There were lots of people out and the city seems quite alive.  Unfortunately there seems to be a lot of homeless people, a fair share of poor people begging and a number of refugees that have arrived from afar.   Rick bought some apricots and a little girl came over to ask for one.  We gave her three, one for her, one for her sister, and one for her mother. We also saw the row of bedding in the picture below. A sad reflection of the economic hardship the country is suffering through and the immigrant crisis.

By now it was 8:00 so we returned to the apartment and relaxed a little.

Here is a map from today.

 

The red pointer is the marina. Bos the airport and the blue dot is our apartment.

 

May 27, 2019 Torzia

Today our friend Stephie wasn’t around in the morning to advise about things to do today so we trusted Rick Steves and headed north to Nafplion and Mycenae after breakfast.

Rick Steves describes Nafplion as a “charming port town,” “small, cozy, and strollable,” and places it on his must-see list. Nafplion changed hands between the Venetians and the Ottomans repeatedly from the 14th through the 19th century, so the city and its architecture have been influenced by a number of different cultures.  It became the capital of Greece for thirteen years after Greece received its independence from the Ottoman Empire after the Revolution of 1821.

It took us about two hours to get there.  It was overcast and rained a little on and off during our ride.  We parked and, of course, the first order of business was coffee.  Once Rick had his caffeine fix we set off following Rick Steves’ walk through town which took us by all the main sites.  Luckily we had our raincoats because we had some rain during our walk. The harbor was protected by three castles which we saw in the distance but didn’t visit.  We definitely could see the mix of Greek, Venetian, and Turkish architecture.

At the end of tour we found a nice restaurant to have lunch. Overall Nafplion was nice, but we wouldn’t have put it on the must-see list.

After lunch, we headed to Mycenae which is a fortress city that was the hub of a mighty civilization that dominated the Greek world between 1600 and 1200 BC. Not much is known about Mycenaeans including who they were, where they came from, or what happened to them.   Rick had had enough of ruins so I went in by myself.  Again I followed Rick Steves walking tour.  It was mostly just rock ruins but it was interesting to think about the people living there 3,500 years ago.

 

Then we drove back to our mountain home.   We didn’t get back to our hotel until about 7.  Here is a map of our travels today.

We spent the evening rearranging our stuff so that we could drop off a suitcase at the marina rather than drag it into Athens.