This morning we started the day by going to the Killing Fields of Choeunk Ek. During the years that the Khmer Rouge was governing, 1975 until 1979, 1.7 million citizens out of a total population of 8 million were beaten and killed. Almost all of societies intellectuals, often their entire family, were killed because they were considered a potential threat to the government. If you wore glasses you were considered a potential intellectual and were killed. Doctors, lawyers, the people that essentially inspired and moved the Cambodian civilization forward were subjected to brutal torture and death. By the end of their rule in 1979, there were only 45 doctors left in the entire country, more than half of which proceeded to leave the country. The torture took places at Tuol Sleng prison, referred to as S21, where they were brutalized for 2-4 months prior to being sent to Choeun En. They gave up whatever accurate or inaccurate information they could about friends and neighbors during their daily beatings, nail pulling, water boarding and hanging and were offered a better life in a new location for their compliance. A brutal death and a mass grave in the killing fields was their ultimate reward.
The killing fields were originally an ancient Chinese cemetery, some of the headstones still remain. The government didn’t want to waste bullets so the soldiers had to get “creative”, so the guards beat, bludgeoned and killed their victims. Over 17,000 people were killed at this site, one of hundreds throughout the country. Eighty-seven of one hundred twenty-nine mass graves at Choeun En have been excavated. The bones were placed in a shrine erected at the site. Eventually it was determined it would be best to leave the remainder of the graves in peace, as they remain today. Needless to say it was a very emotional experience to learn about this place of death. It was equally, if not more difficult, for Alex, our guide, whose heritage was entwined with this place.
Here are some pictures.
After the killing fields we went to the Tuol Sleng prison or Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum as it is now called. It was a former high school. Ann, Pam, and I didn’t want to go into the prison so we waited outside in a sidewalk cafe where we had delicious lime smoothies. Rick said it wasn’t too graphic, but the fact remains that thousands of likely innocent Cambodians were subjected to brutal torture, facing imminent death while here. Only 7 people survived the prison. Three of the survivors were there, each selling books about their experiences.
On leaving we went to lunch and returned to the hotel afterward. We had the option of relaxing in the hotel or going to the Russian market. Three of us, Allison, Judy and I decided we wanted to go. We took a remork.
Named for its popularity among Russian expats during the 1980’s, the market is known for selling traditional handicrafts, antiques, and everyday goods. They had everything from clothes to shoes, meat to seafood, automotive parts to kitchen equipment, restaurants to beauty and nail salons. Allison and Judy bought some cashews and Judy got her fanny pack fixed.
The driver had waited for us so we easily found our way back. It was fun to be riding in a remork through the streets of Phnom Penh!
We had one more site visit for the day, the Royal Palace. The actual palace where the King lives is closed to visitors, but we saw the throne room were he was coronated as well as several other buildings constructed with typical Thai architecture.
On the site are several stupas which contain the ashes of past kings.
The Silver Pagoda is also in the royal palace complex. The Silver Pagoda draws its name from the more than 5,000 silver tiles that cover the floor in the temple. It’s home to numerous Buddhist artifacts, including the Emerald Buddha. There were no pictures allowed inside 😒.
Alex told us several jokes today. None of them were very good, but his face really lit up while he was telling them as we rode along on the bus.
We went back to the hotel for a little downtime before dinner. I tried to nap but couldn’t. Rick enjoyed views of the city from the roof bar. At dinner we discovered that Alex had a girlfriend. He was very cute and wanted us to meet her, so he called her and told her to meet us at the hotel. She was there when we returned. They were very cute together. Unfortunately I didn’t get a picture. We also met Vuhta that evening, our guide for the journey to Siem Reap.
Almost surreal that we will be in Cambodia in about a month on our upcoming trip’s post-trip. About halfway through reading The Lost Executioner by Nic Dunlop about the Tuol Sleng prison and the man in charge. Obviously, a disturbing story. Enjoying your pictures and descriptions. Would have enjoyed it tremendously if our trips could have overlapped.